SARASOTA, FL: June 17, 2010 - Englewood serves up old Florida with a mix of flavors
BY KATHY GREY kgrey@floridaweekly.com
TAKE A TRIP TO THE OUTSKIRTS OF CHARLOTTE COUNTY AND YOULL find two very different worlds within minutes of each other in the town of Englewood, straddling both Charlotte and Sarasota counties.
Its all in Englewood: Pristine gulf views from the Pearl Beach Inn and a historic downtown just a 15-minute drive away.
One is the Pearl Beach Inn, an oasis on the Gulf of Mexico, inconspicuously nestled among million-dollar homes on Manasota Key. The other is Old Englewood Village on Lemon Bay, just on the other side of town, 15 minutes away.
Each location is a treasure in itself, but the juxtaposition of the two disparate environments makes this part of Southwest Florida something really special, and well worth the experience.
We found ourselves lolling around the beach searching for sharks teeth as the sun came up, and savoring a leisurely lunch in a funky bistro in dowtown Englewood by noon. We enjoyed a quiet stroll down Dearborn Street, where a plethora of boutiques, galleries and restaurants drew us out of the heat into their comfortable and welcoming environs. Late in the afternoon, we retired to our beach retreat for a quiet nap, another spectacular sunset and genteel conversation with other guests staying at the 12-room Pearl Beach Inn Resort.
What made the experience unique is that it was comfortable in every way. Visitors are lost in a wonderful world of God- and man-made history, of art and nature. And if you let it, a stay in Manasota/Englewood what we like to call surf and turf can envelop a travelers cares and whisk them out to sea or at least keep them at bay for a day or two.
Beaching on Manasota Key the Pearl Beach Inn Manasota Key is home to several public beaches, including Blind Pass, Englewood Beach, Manasota Beach and Stump Pass. For the day-tripper, each has a character all its own as is well worth the trip.
Our favorite beach was a gift that came along with accommodations at the Pearl Beach Inn Resort. The pristine and secluded beach was just 30 feet from our room at the Pearl, which overlooks the Gulf of Mexico. The Pearl Beach Inn is in the middle of Manasota Key, and affords the ultimate old Florida beach getaway for the world-weary. Visitors share the beach with adjacent and hospitable residents, standing side by side, knee-deep in the tide, engaging in stories and recreational fishing. The Pearls beach is loaded with sea treasures shells, fish and sharks teeth. Its a taste of unspoiled Southwest Florida at its best, where visitors become lost in a sandyfooted world of goodness, and enjoy the genial and unobtrusive world-class attention of its manager in residence, Robert McKenna.
Wills Honkytonk is a self-proclaimed sunny spot for shady people in Englewood. The Pearl was built in 1950, and has undergone generations of change, all for the good. Each newly-renovated room is appointed in Bahamian flair, with quality linens and art adorning the interior, flat-panel TVs with digital cable access and free wireless internet. Each unit has its own window A/C, ideal for climate control. The units are outfitted with kitchens and necessary utensils for those who want to dine in. The common areas of the Pearl are havens for guests to congregate, dotted with hammocks and barbecues for their enjoyment.
Venturing out, we took our hosts advice and traveled south on the key for a meal at the Lock and Key, which features reasonably-priced meals in a low-key, Floridian setting, complete with clapboard ceilings and paddle fans. Along the way, we discovered Canopy Road, an awe-inspiring three mile tree-topped stretch of Manasota Key Road.
Resident manager Robert McKenna, originally from Saganaw, Mich., fishes at sunset most nights. We retreated back to the Pearl Beach Inn, which is a cross between cottage and resort, and comfortable in every way. We chatted with guests who make an annual trek to the Pearl Tripping along Old Englewood Village.
On the other side of town lies quaint and historic Old Englewood Village. This is an old Florida locale reminiscent of a souped-up, hippiefied Mayberry, featuring a mlange of fine art, food and a funky mix of shops that gives the area its positively quirky edge.
Dearborn Street calls to the day-tripper offering an array of great places for entertainment, food, shopping and curiosity seeking.
As we drove into town, we noted Saturday Nite Live signs staked along the streets. SNL is a community party held twice monthly in season, featuring live outdoor entertainment, later-night shopping and restaurants ready to serve downtown nighttime revelers. It was the last SNL of the season, but the fun kicks up again starting in September.
We enjoyed a gourmet lunch at the colorful Mango Bistro, which offers French crpes, wraps, salads, and inventively tasty dishes. The caf mocha was rich and flavorful, as was the lobster bisque, served with rosemary focaccia. The bistro itself was memorable, with its mango-hued walls and local art pieces for sale, including sarongs produced by co-owner Marie LaForge. Her Zigamazoo sarongs are, as theyre labeled, wearable works of art.
After lunch, we had to visit Girlie- Man Chic @ Dearborn, just for its names sake. Outside, the Cyndi Lauper-like landscaping gives way to a whimsically-themed upscale consignment shop.
Next door to Girlie-Man is the Arts Alliance of Lemon Bay, where we met artist Marsha Banas, whose eye-catching oil pet portraits were on display. The alliances art is fine, beautifully displayed and reasonably priced.
Along Dearborn, we popped in at the Roasters Coffee Bar and listened to live music performed by Phil Jones and Robert Thacher of Lemon Bay Harmonics. The duo can be heard every Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and at other venues around town.
Down the road, we visited Mystic See, a new age emporium and the Blue Pineapple, with its eclectic assortment of design accents.
After a long day, we stopped in to meet Joyce Colmar, who owns Vino Loca, a tapas and wine bar down the road. Ms. Colmar sells more than 30 wines by the glass and more than 300 wines by the bottle. Vino Loco is involved in the Dearborn Street Wine Walk, held the last Saturday in February.
Outside the Dearborn Street hub we spotted a few more gems of local color, including the 1917 Buchans Landing settlement, the Green Street Church and Museum and the Ringlingaffiliated Englewood Arts Center, which closes at 2 p.m. in the summer.
We spotted the biker bar Wills Honkytonk (a sunny spot for shady people) on the way out of town, an establishment that confirmed to us that Englewood is for everyone.
Back at the Pearl Beach Inn, we had a quiet in-room meal, took in another sunset and enjoyed one last night of conversation with our new friends.
Were not sure which we love more, the surf or the turf, but theres one thing thats certain: Well be back to spend more time in Englewood, the land of surf and turf.
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